In the
1800’s the French vineyards was devastated by many diseases but the main to
afflict the vines was Phylloxera an insect which attacks the roots of the
plants (this was coinciding with when the Greeks started growing raisins). If
it weren't for the use of American root stock (which is immune to Phylloxera)
being grafted with French vines then many of the grape variety we know today
would be extinct. Every vineyard was replanted and now immune to the dreaded
Phylloxera.
The French also
hugely developed the effects that the barrel used for ageing has on the wine.
They learnt that dampening and then placing the half completed barrels or Rose
over a small fire chars or “Toasts” the inside of the barrel this will then
affect the characteristics of the wine aged in the barrel. When buying a barrel
from a cooper there are 3 options given light, medium or heavy toast, the toast
chosen will depend on the grapes used and the desired style of the resulting
wine. This heating also allows the wood to be bent to form the arches to obtain
the shape of the wine barrel. They also learnt that white oak is the best wood
to be used as this has the tight grain and fine tannin content as well as being
particularly tough and it's bend ability which is fairly stable when going
through wet swelling and dry shrinkage and, of course, it has desirable
flavours to impart to the wine. Later on it was discovered that chestnut wood
could be used, but they had to have the inside covered in paraffin or something
similar to mask the bitter flavours. A wine barrel can be used for 5 years but
after that the barrel stops imparting any flavour to the wine and should be
disposed of. This is, of course, expensive and so several techniques have been
employed to carry on using barrels. One is to shave the inside of used barrels
and then insert new thin inner staves that have been toasted. Another option is
to very simply to keep the wine in stainless steel containers and put bags of
oak shavings in with the wine. Neither of these has managed to produce quite
the same effect as a freshly made barrel.
Have you ever
notice in French nostalgic wine posters that the peasant farmers always armed
with a bottle of wine in one hand and a block of cheese in the other. Now I've brought this to your attention you may be wondering why wine and cheese are
generally consumed at the same time. The reason for this is something Europeans
learnt hundreds of years ago which was that the fats in cheese temper the
bitter taste of tannin that cheap (especially red) wines have and makes the
wine taste much better. So next time you're in the mood for a good wine but are
short of cash you can substitute a good bottle of wine with your favorite cheap
box of wine and a block of cheddar.
Now on to one of
wines proudest moments in its long history I of course am referring to the
creation on champagne. Despite common belief champagne was not created by the
monk Don Perignon but was in fact was researched 30 years earlier by an English
scientist and physician called Christopher Merrett in the paper he presented to
the royal society in 1662 called “Some observations concerning the Ordering of
wine”. Champagne was reserved for very special occasions such as French
Coronation Festivities. Kings appreciated it so much they even sent it to as
homage’s to other monarchs. The reason for champagne being held with such high
regard was that because of the pressure on the bottles often caused them to
explode. Also, the explosion from one bottle disintegrating would often cause a
chain reaction amongst the bottles. This meant that it was common to lose
20-90% of champagne. The bottles were so volatile that the monks brewing had to
wear heavy iron masks to protect themselves when in the cellars. The monks
referred to champagne as “Devil’s wine” and so strongly did they dislike it
that Don Perignon was sent down to the cellars with the specific job of getting
rid of his Devil's wine. Fortunately, Don Perignon instead chose to accommodate
for the new sparkling wine, with several different techniques. One was to
thicken the glass of the wine bottles so they could withstand the pressure of
the second formation. The other was his marvelous invention of the wire collar
which also helped the cork withstand the pressure and meant that the monks could
finally get rid of the iron masks. The difference in the making of champagne to
wine is that there is a second fermentation process, which involves adding
several more grams of yeast at least and then letting it ferment in the bottle.
The carbon dioxide produced by this second fermentation then causes the bubbles
(of carbon dioxide) to be released rapidly when the bottle is opened because
carbon dioxide is not very soluble. It was also soon realized that
imperfections in the glasses the wine was drunk from meant that a steady stream
of bubbles. This led to the etching of glass to better the drink that little
bit more. The champagne at this time was in fact far sweeter than what we drink
today; this was because the Russians liked to have at least 300g per liter. It
was not until 1846 when Perrier Jouët decided not to sweeten the champagne
before exporting it to England. This then led to the trend towards the drier
champagnes that we enjoy today.
Now on to new
world wines such as Australia and the Americas, these wines are often looked
down upon as inferior to European wine. Although they are now starting to
produce some exquisite wines but it must also be said that these countries
supply a large amount of standard table wine and less fine wine compared to
Europe. There isn't much history to the Americas and Australia as they are
recently founded countries so the accounts will be brief.
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