GRAPES FOR WHITE WINE

Airén Bland workhorse of La Mancha, Spain: fresh if made well. Albariño (Alvarinho) Fashionable and expensive in Spain: apricot-scented, gd acidity. Best in Rías Baixas; shaping up elsewhere, but not all live up to hype. Alvarinho in Portugal just as gd: aromatic Vinho Verde, esp in Monção, Melgaço. Aligoté...

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