Wednesday, September 16, 2015


Red wines

Red Bordeaux and other Cab Sauv-based wines (v. old, light and delicate wines: eg. pre-1959,
with exceptions such as 1945). Leg or rack of young lamb, roast with a hint of herbs (but not
garlic); entrecôte; simply roasted partridge or grouse or sweetbreads.
Fully mature great vintages (eg. Bordeaux 59 61 82 85) Shoulder or saddle of lamb, roast with
a touch of garlic, roast ribs or grilled rump of beef.
Mature but still vigorous (eg. 89 90) Shoulder or saddle of lamb (incl kidneys) with rich sauce.
Fillet of beef marchand de vin (with wine and bone marrow). Avoid beef Wellington: pastry
dulls the palate.
Merlot-based Bordeaux (Pomerol, St-Émilion) Beef as above (fillet is richest) or well-hung
Côte d’Or red burgundy Consider the wine’s weight and texture, which grow lighter/more
velvety with age, and its character: Nuits is earthy, Musigny flowery, great Romanées can be
exotic, Pommard renowned for its four-squareness. Roast chicken or capon is a safe standard
with red burgundy; guinea fowl for slightly stronger wines, then partridge, grouse, or
woodcock for those progressively more rich and pungent. Hare and venison (chevreuil) are
great old burgundy The Burgundian formula is cheese: Epoisses (unfermented); a fine cheese
but a terrible waste of fine old wines.
vigorous younger burgundy Duck or goose roasted to minimize fat. Or faisinjan (pheasant
cooked in pomegranate juice). Or smoked gammon.
Great Syrahs: Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Grange; Vega Sicilia Beef (such as the super-rich,
super-tender, super-slow-cooked ox cheek I had at Vega Sicilia), venison, well-hung game;
bone marrow on toast; English cheese (esp best farm Cheddar) but also hard goats milk and
ewes milk cheeses such as England’s Berkswell and Ticklemore.
Rioja Gran Res, Pesquera… Richly flavoured roasts: wild boar, mutton, saddle of hare, whole
suckling pig.
Barolo, Barbaresco Risotto with white truffles; pasta with game sauce (eg. pappardelle alla
lepre); porcini mushrooms; Parmesan.
Amarone Classically, in Verona, risotto all’Amarone or pastissada. But if your butcher doesn’t
run to horse, then shin of beef, slow-cooked in more Amarone.
Great vintage Port or Madeira Walnuts or pecans. A Cox’s orange pippin and a digestive

biscuit is a classic English accompaniment.


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