Wednesday, September 16, 2015


White wines

Beerenauslese/Trockenbeerenauslese Biscuits, peaches, greengages. Desserts made from
rhubarb, gooseberries, quinces, apples.
Supreme white burgundy (Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne) or equivalent Graves Roast
veal, farm chicken stuffed with truffles or herbs under the skin, or sweetbreads; richly sauced
white fish or scallops as above. Or lobster or poached wild salmon.
Very good Chablis, white burgundy, other top-quality Chards White fish simply grilled or
meunière. Dover sole, turbot, halibut are best; brill, drenched in butter, can be excellent. (Sea
bass is too delicate; salmon passes but does little for the finest wine.)
Condrieu, Château-Grillet, Hermitage Blanc V. light pasta scented with herbs and tiny peas or
broad beans (fava beans).
Grand cru Alsace: Riesling Truite au bleu, smoked salmon, or choucroute garni.
Pinot Gris Roast or grilled veal. Or truffle sandwich (slice a whole truffle, make a sandwich
with salted butter and gd country bread – not sourdough or rye – wrap and refrigerate
overnight. Then toast it in the oven.
Gewurztraminer Cheese soufflé (Münster cheese).
vendange tardive Foie gras or tarte tatin.
Old vintage Champagne (not blanc de blancs) As an apéritif, or with cold partridge, grouse,
woodcock. Evolved flavours of old Champagne make it far easier to match with food than the
tightness of young wine. Hot foie gras can be sensational. Don’t be afraid of garlic or even
Indian spices, but omit the chilli.
Late-disgorged old wines have extra freshness plus tertiary flavours. Try with truffles,
lobster, scallops, crab, sweetbreads, pork belly, roast veal, chicken.
Rosé Pigeon.
Sauternes Simple crisp, buttery biscuits (eg. langues de chat), white peaches, nectarines,
strawberries (no cream). Not tropical fruit. Pan-seared foie gras. Lobster, chicken with
Sauternes sauce. Château d’Yquem recommends oysters. Experiment with blue cheeses.
Rocquefort is classic, but needs a powerful wine.
Supreme Vouvray moëlleux, etc. Buttery biscuits, apples, apple tart.
Tokaji Aszú (5–6 puttonyos) Foie gras is recommended. Fruit desserts, cream desserts, even
chocolate can be wonderful. It even works with some Chinese, though not with chilli – the
spice has to be adjusted to meet the sweetness. Szechuan pepper is gd. Havana cigars are

splendid. So is the naked sip.


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