White wines
Beerenauslese/Trockenbeerenauslese Biscuits, peaches, greengages. Desserts made from
rhubarb,
gooseberries, quinces, apples.
Supreme white burgundy (Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne)
or equivalent Graves Roast
veal,
farm chicken stuffed with truffles or herbs under the skin, or sweetbreads;
richly sauced
white
fish or scallops as above. Or lobster or poached wild salmon.
Very good Chablis, white burgundy, other top-quality
Chards White fish simply grilled or
meunière.
Dover sole, turbot, halibut are best; brill, drenched in butter, can be
excellent. (Sea
bass
is too delicate; salmon passes but does little for the finest wine.)
Condrieu, Château-Grillet, Hermitage Blanc V. light pasta scented with herbs and tiny peas or
broad
beans (fava beans).
Grand cru Alsace: Riesling Truite au bleu,
smoked salmon, or choucroute garni.
Pinot Gris Roast
or grilled veal. Or truffle sandwich (slice a whole truffle, make a sandwich
with
salted butter and gd country bread – not sourdough or rye – wrap and
refrigerate
overnight.
Then toast it in the oven.
Gewurztraminer Cheese
soufflé (Münster cheese).
vendange tardive Foie
gras or tarte tatin.
Old vintage Champagne (not blanc de blancs) As an apéritif, or with cold partridge, grouse,
woodcock.
Evolved flavours of old Champagne make it far easier to match with food than
the
tightness
of young wine. Hot foie gras can be sensational. Don’t be afraid of garlic or
even
Indian
spices, but omit the chilli.
Late-disgorged old wines have extra freshness plus tertiary flavours. Try with
truffles,
lobster,
scallops, crab, sweetbreads, pork belly, roast veal, chicken.
Rosé Pigeon.
Sauternes Simple
crisp, buttery biscuits (eg. langues
de chat), white peaches, nectarines,
strawberries
(no cream). Not tropical fruit. Pan-seared foie gras. Lobster, chicken with
Sauternes
sauce. Château d’Yquem recommends oysters. Experiment with blue cheeses.
Rocquefort
is classic, but needs a powerful wine.
Supreme Vouvray moëlleux, etc. Buttery biscuits, apples, apple tart.
Tokaji Aszú (5–6 puttonyos) Foie gras is recommended. Fruit desserts, cream
desserts, even
chocolate
can be wonderful. It even works with some Chinese, though not with chilli – the
spice
has to be adjusted to meet the sweetness. Szechuan pepper is gd. Havana cigars
are
splendid.
So is the naked sip.
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