THE TASTE OF WINE

A SAMPLE TASTING

This chart provides a few examples from a whole range of the possible options that are open in the complex business of tasting. It also demonstrates that it is possible to approach the task systematically and rationally. When tasting it is important to keep your options open until you have assessed the sight, smell, and taste of the wine. At each stage you should be seeking to confirm at least one of the possibilities that have arisen during the previous stage. Be confident and do not be afraid to back your own judgment—it is the only way to learn.

SIGHT The clear, well-defined garnet color of medium intensity suggests only moderately hot climatic origins. The tinge of purple on the meniscus could indicate youth. SMELL This is dominated by the distinctive pear-drop aroma of macération carbonique, hallmark of all but the best cru Beaujolais. Often mistaken for the varietal aroma of Gamay (from which Beaujolais is made), the aroma is characteristic of all wines fermented in this way. If this is a Beaujolais, the color suggests something more serious than a lighter basic Beaujolais or Nouveau. TASTE The balance between fruit, acidity, and alcohol confirms that this is Beaujolais. The good depth of spicygrapey fruit beneath the pervasive pear-drop character indicates that it is better than average. CONCLUSION Grape variety Gamay Region Beaujolais Age 2 to 3 years old Comment Beaujolais Villages

SIGHT Water-white, this wine has obvious cool climatic origins, although the tiny bubbles collecting on the glass suggest it could be a Vinho Verde. But the palest usually have a tell-tale hint of straw color. Probably a modest Qualitätswein from the Mosel region of Germany. SMELL This is not Vinho Verde. Its crisp, youthful, sherbet aroma is typical Mosel Riesling. Considering its color, the nose would confirm that this is probably a Qualitätswein, or a Kabinett at most, of a modest vintage, but from a very good grower who is possibly as high up as the Saar tributary. TASTE Youthful, tangy fruit, the flower of the Riesling is still evident. More flavor than expected, and a nice dry, piquant finish with a hint of peach on the aftertaste. CONCLUSION Grape variety Riesling Region Mosel Age about 18 to 24 months Comment Kabinett, top grower

SIGHT Intense, almost black color that is virtually opaque. Obviously from a thick-skinned grape variety like the Syrah, which has ripened under a very hot sun. Australia’s Swan Valley or France’s Rhône Valley? California? SMELL As intense on the nose as on the eye. Definitely Syrah, and judging by its spicy aroma with hints of herbal scrub, almost certainly from the northern Rhône. Australia and California can now be ruled out. More massive than complex, it must be from an exceptional vintage. TASTE Powerful and tannic, the spicy-fruit flavor is rich with blackberries, blackcurrants, plums, and cinnamon. Beginning to develop, but has a long way to go. This is a highquality Rhône Syrah, but without quite the class of Hermitage, or the finesse of Côte Rôtie. CONCLUSION Grape variety Syrah Region Cornas, Rhône Valley Age about 5 years old Comment top grower, great year

SIGHT The brick-red color and watery meniscus immediately suggest a young Bordeaux of petit-château quality. But first impressions can deceive—more evidence is needed. SMELL An attractive violet aroma with a restrained hint of soft, spicy fruit. Nothing contradicts my impressions, although the lack of blackcurrant suggests that the wine is a Bordeaux with a high proportion of Merlot rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. TASTE The palate perfectly reflects the nose. This is a medium-bodied, modest claret of no great age. However, the fruit is well rounded and the soft tannin structure indicates that in little more than another 2, possibly 3, years it will be at its peak. CONCLUSION Grape variety Merlotdominated blend Region Bordeaux Age 2 years old Comment petit château or good generic